DIY Ambilight - Revision history

Jan at 20:09, 2 January 2021

2021-01-02T20:09:09Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 22:09, 2 January 2021
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	Feel free to use a ruler or similar to measure the left and right bottom parts length on your computer screen when configuring the exact gap/input position of the layout - i know i did! ;-)		Feel free to use a ruler or similar to measure the left and right bottom parts length on your computer screen when configuring the exact gap/input position of the layout - i know i did! ;-)

			As i'm running this on a Vero 4K+, i'm using the AMLogic grabber with a width and height of 100 and 56 (matching my LED layout). I have also written some short Python scripts to enable and disable the "platform capture" feature whenever Kodi wakes up or goes to sleep, so that Hyperion doesn't block WLED by sending LED commands even though Kodi is not actually in use, and the relay can switch the LEDs off.

			'''.kodi/userdata/wake.py'''
			<pre>
			import requests

			hyperion_url = 'http://127.0.0.1:8090/json-rpc'
			hyperion_data = '{"command":"componentstate","componentstate":{"component":"GRABBER","state":true}}'
			requests.post(hyperion_url, hyperion_data)
			</pre>

			'''.kodi/userdata/standby.py'''
			<pre>
			import requests

			hyperion_url = 'http://127.0.0.1:8090/json-rpc'
			hyperion_data = '{"command":"componentstate","componentstate":{"component":"GRABBER","state":false}}'
			requests.post(hyperion_url, hyperion_data)
			</pre>

			Yes, they're not pretty and nearly identical, but honestly: i don't care as long as they work. (PS: Yes, i know that Python can use JSON natively, but Hyperion doesn't like real JSON from Python because of the '''exact''' true/false values that are required, and Python complains if i use those exact values. So strings it is!)

	=== Hyperion Android Grabber ===		=== Hyperion Android Grabber ===

Jan at 20:00, 2 January 2021

2021-01-02T20:00:53Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 22:00, 2 January 2021
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	=== Hyperion ===		=== Hyperion ===
			As Hyperion.NG is not yet available as a package for OSMC, i used the excellent [https://github.com/hissingshark/hyperion-vero4k hyperion-vero4k] script to build Hyperion.NG on my Vero 4K+ (using the current master branch, not a release). This makes the initial installation a breeze and is easily reproduceable, leaving plenty of time for the more challenging part: setting Hyperion up correctly.

	For Hyperion, the most important settings are:		For Hyperion, the most important settings are:
	* LED Hardware / LED Controller		* LED Hardware / LED Controller

Jan at 19:56, 2 January 2021

2021-01-02T19:56:40Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 21:56, 2 January 2021
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	Configuration should be fairly simple, just make sure to point it to your Hyperion IP and port 19445, configure the same number of vertical and horizontal LEDs as in Hyperion, but one important settings is the '''priority''': set this to something like 150 (i think the default is 50), otherwise it won't trigger the output.		Configuration should be fairly simple, just make sure to point it to your Hyperion IP and port 19445, configure the same number of vertical and horizontal LEDs as in Hyperion, but one important settings is the '''priority''': set this to something like 150 (i think the default is 50), otherwise it won't trigger the output.

			=== Enigmalight ===
			Mostly working, but still not perfect. Also not that easy to even get installed. To be continued...

Jan at 19:55, 2 January 2021

2021-01-02T19:55:20Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 21:55, 2 January 2021
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	The star of the show is WLED. It receives data from Hyperion on my OSMC Vero 4K+ (my mediacenter running Kodi), from Hyperion Android Grabber on my Nvidia Shield TV Pro (which i use to stream games from my PC) and from Enigmalight on my VU+ Uno 4K SE (basically "just" cable television, on steroids).		The star of the show is WLED. It receives data from Hyperion on my OSMC Vero 4K+ (my mediacenter running Kodi), from Hyperion Android Grabber on my Nvidia Shield TV Pro (which i use to stream games from my PC) and from Enigmalight on my VU+ Uno 4K SE (basically "just" cable television, on steroids).

			=== WLED ===
	As WLED doesn't allow exporting its config (yet), here are the most important settings i changed from the stock setup:		As WLED doesn't allow exporting its config (yet), here are the most important settings i changed from the stock setup:
	* Wifi Setup: SSID & Key already set in the image i uploaded, so nothing to change here for me, but have a look at the [https://github.com/Aircoookie/WLED/wiki WLED wiki] how to connect to a stock image.		* Wifi Setup: SSID & Key already set in the image i uploaded, so nothing to change here for me, but have a look at the [https://github.com/Aircoookie/WLED/wiki WLED wiki] how to connect to a stock image.
Line 93:		Line 94:
	* Sync Interface: Force max brightness = Off (this is important so that data from Hyperion can switch the relay on if it was off)		* Sync Interface: Force max brightness = Off (this is important so that data from Hyperion can switch the relay on if it was off)

			=== Hyperion ===
	For Hyperion, the most important settings are:		For Hyperion, the most important settings are:
	* LED Hardware / LED Controller		* LED Hardware / LED Controller
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	Feel free to use a ruler or similar to measure the left and right bottom parts length on your computer screen when configuring the exact gap/input position of the layout - i know i did! ;-)		Feel free to use a ruler or similar to measure the left and right bottom parts length on your computer screen when configuring the exact gap/input position of the layout - i know i did! ;-)

			=== Hyperion Android Grabber ===
			The Hyperion Android Grabber does pretty much what its name implies: it grabs the screen output of Android and sends it to Hyperion.

			Configuration should be fairly simple, just make sure to point it to your Hyperion IP and port 19445, configure the same number of vertical and horizontal LEDs as in Hyperion, but one important settings is the '''priority''': set this to something like 150 (i think the default is 50), otherwise it won't trigger the output.

Jan at 19:49, 2 January 2021

2021-01-02T19:49:35Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 21:49, 2 January 2021
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	# Yes, you should use a relay. Even when switched off, my ~300 LEDs draw ~0.25 amps, unless i completely cut the power with the a relay.		# Yes, you should use a relay. Even when switched off, my ~300 LEDs draw ~0.25 amps, unless i completely cut the power with the a relay.
	# Yes, you should inject power also from the other end of the LED strip, as there will be a very noticeable drop in brightness along the LED strip the further you get away from the powered end.		# Yes, you should inject power also from the other end of the LED strip, as there will be a very noticeable drop in brightness along the LED strip the further you get away from the powered end.


	So here's the bill of materials for my DIY Ambilight:		So here's the bill of materials for my DIY Ambilight:

Jan at 19:49, 2 January 2021

2021-01-02T19:49:23Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 21:49, 2 January 2021
Line 109:		Line 109:

	Your exact layout depends on your number of LEDs and how you attach them, but this should give you a general idea of how to configure the layout. And always remember: this layout is viewed from the front of your TV!		Your exact layout depends on your number of LEDs and how you attach them, but this should give you a general idea of how to configure the layout. And always remember: this layout is viewed from the front of your TV!

	Feel free to use a ruler or similar to measure the left and right bottom parts length on your computer screen when configuring the exact gap/input position of the layout - i know i did! ;-)		Feel free to use a ruler or similar to measure the left and right bottom parts length on your computer screen when configuring the exact gap/input position of the layout - i know i did! ;-)

Jan at 19:49, 2 January 2021

2021-01-02T19:49:08Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 21:49, 2 January 2021
Line 108:		Line 108:
	** Reverse Direction: On		** Reverse Direction: On

	Your exact layout depends on your number of LEDs and how you attach them, but this should give you a general idea of how to configure the layout. And always remember: this layout is viewed from the front of your TV! ;-)		Your exact layout depends on your number of LEDs and how you attach them, but this should give you a general idea of how to configure the layout. And always remember: this layout is viewed from the front of your TV!
			Feel free to use a ruler or similar to measure the left and right bottom parts length on your computer screen when configuring the exact gap/input position of the layout - i know i did! ;-)

Jan at 19:45, 2 January 2021

2021-01-02T19:45:58Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 21:45, 2 January 2021
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	* LED Hardware / LED Layout		* LED Hardware / LED Layout
	** Top: 100		** Top: 100
	** Bottom: 100		** Bottom: 100 (should be the same a Top)
	** Left: 56		** Left: 56
	** Right: 56		** Right: 56
	** Gap Length: 14		** Gap Length: 14
	** Gap Position: ~~200~~		** Gap Position: 199 (position, not count - so it starts from 0, not 1 - and is actually the 200th LED)
	** Input Position: ~~200~~		** Input Position: 199
	** Reverse Direction: On		** Reverse Direction: On

	Your exact layout depends on your number of LEDs and how you attach them, but this should give you a general idea of how to configure the layout. And always remember: this layout is viewed from the front of your TV! ;-)		Your exact layout depends on your number of LEDs and how you attach them, but this should give you a general idea of how to configure the layout. And always remember: this layout is viewed from the front of your TV! ;-)

Jan at 19:35, 2 January 2021

2021-01-02T19:35:10Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 21:35, 2 January 2021
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	* LED Preferences: LED count = 298, Enable automatic brightness limiter = Off		* LED Preferences: LED count = 298, Enable automatic brightness limiter = Off
	* Sync Interface: Force max brightness = Off (this is important so that data from Hyperion can switch the relay on if it was off)		* Sync Interface: Force max brightness = Off (this is important so that data from Hyperion can switch the relay on if it was off)

			For Hyperion, the most important settings are:
			* LED Hardware / LED Controller
			** Controller Type: udpraw
			** Hardware LED count: 298
			** Target IP: <the IP of your ESP8266>
			** Target Port: 19446
			* LED Hardware / LED Layout
			** Top: 100
			** Bottom: 100
			** Left: 56
			** Right: 56
			** Gap Length: 14
			** Gap Position: 200
			** Input Position: 200
			** Reverse Direction: On

			Your exact layout depends on your number of LEDs and how you attach them, but this should give you a general idea of how to configure the layout. And always remember: this layout is viewed from the front of your TV! ;-)

Jan at 19:26, 2 January 2021

2021-01-02T19:26:02Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 21:26, 2 January 2021
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	== Software ==		== Software ==
	Now that the hard part of the build is done, let's go over the software i'm using:		Now that the hard part of the build is done, let's go over the software i'm using:
	* [~~WLED~~ https://github.com/Aircoookie/WLED]		* [https://github.com/Aircoookie/WLED WLED]
	* [https://github.com/hyperion-project/hyperion.ng Hyperion]		* [https://github.com/hyperion-project/hyperion.ng Hyperion]
	* [https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.abrenoch.hyperiongrabber&hl=en&gl=US Hyperion Android Grabber]		* [https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.abrenoch.hyperiongrabber&hl=en&gl=US Hyperion Android Grabber]
Line 86:		Line 86:

	The star of the show is WLED. It receives data from Hyperion on my OSMC Vero 4K+ (my mediacenter running Kodi), from Hyperion Android Grabber on my Nvidia Shield TV Pro (which i use to stream games from my PC) and from Enigmalight on my VU+ Uno 4K SE (basically "just" cable television, on steroids).		The star of the show is WLED. It receives data from Hyperion on my OSMC Vero 4K+ (my mediacenter running Kodi), from Hyperion Android Grabber on my Nvidia Shield TV Pro (which i use to stream games from my PC) and from Enigmalight on my VU+ Uno 4K SE (basically "just" cable television, on steroids).

			As WLED doesn't allow exporting its config (yet), here are the most important settings i changed from the stock setup:
			* Wifi Setup: SSID & Key already set in the image i uploaded, so nothing to change here for me, but have a look at the [https://github.com/Aircoookie/WLED/wiki WLED wiki] how to connect to a stock image.
			* LED Preferences: LED count = 298, Enable automatic brightness limiter = Off
			* Sync Interface: Force max brightness = Off (this is important so that data from Hyperion can switch the relay on if it was off)